Terri & Timor Leste


Typical quiet tropical ocean
Jane's sister Terri left Dartmoor, Devon, England in April 2016 on her bicycle with the aim of coming to Australia overland. By April this year she was in Indonesia so we decided to meet up with her in Dili, Timor Leste for a couple of weeks.
We have friends Ray and Becky from our Marshall Islands adventure and they were happy for us to stay in their house in Dili and lend us 2 bikes for some touring. This was so nice to have a "home" base after our forays around Timor Leste.
Our hosts Becky and Ray flanked by Terri and Jane
Our first couple of days were walking and riding near Dili but then we went on a 3 day bike ride to the West. Busy and sometimes rough roads and humid hot riding but the occasional swim or iced tea and we managed to get to a nunnery/guesthouse at Maubarra. Lovely accommodation on a hill with sunset views. Swimming near a sign warning of crocodiles spiced things up a bit!
Riding West to Maubarra

A hot and frazzled Jane

Three of us next to a crocodile infested lake

At Liquitia market
After a brief pause in Dili (3 hours) we caught an overnight ferry to Panta Makassar in the enclave of Oecusse. The trip there was fine with a breeze, some space to sleep and a few snacks. The return trip was hot, crowded, smoky and the water seller went to sleep. Not much fun.
This enclave is 12 hours by ferry to the West and stuck in West Timor, Indonesia and only 70000 inhabitants. Again we stayed in a lovely nuns guesthouse with ensuite (Asian mandi style but fine) and a base for 4 days of exploring.
The "Sealink" ferry to Pantar Makassar

Steerage class

Steerage class at 03:00
Our Ojeks to get us to the start of the mountain walk
One of the highlights of Oecusse was a walk up the mountains along a mountain stream with waterfalls and a hand from local Fernando who was going our way.


Fernando with the sisters

Sweating amazing amount on the mountain walk

Jane with unofficial guide Fernando
Another day we hired a Microlet to see the near countryside. Even though we hired it it was full of passengers, smoke, and great Country and Western music (just ask Terri)
Highlight was going to a little"project" where 10 ladies were making Tais on back stretch looms for sale in Dili.
Typical window decoration in a Microlet


And a passenger alights

Tais weaving
One of our walks in Panta Makassar was entertaining with a group of school kids walking with us and then the lads swimming with us in again crocodile infested waters. We were assured swimming in groups reduced the risk.
The lads showing off (literally)

Think it says "Safe to swim"
Net fishing at sunset

Our last foray was a mountain trip by Anguna (truck) to Maubisse. $3 for three and a half hours of great fun and rough windy roads but things to see all the way and cool for the first time in 2 weeks.
Terri in prime seat on an Anguna (truck/bus)

We had better seats!
On our first walk around Maubisse we went up to an old Portuguese hotel where a group of local nuns from the Sisters of Charity with Kenyan background were celebrating a Saints day with Kenyan drums and singing. We joined in for a bit of fun enjoyed by all.
Music session with Kenyan Sisters of Charity

Taking fresh bread rolls home for breakfast

A poor family in a basic bush house
One of our next meetings was with Mick, a Timorese English teacher who recognised Jane's school T-shirt monogram and soon had us all teaching a bit of simple English to his class of young adults.
Terri and Jane with English teacher



Ms Evans in full teacher mode
Traditional hut
Guests with Old Man of the funeral ceremony
After climbing a steep hill for sunset Terri and Ants gravitated to some Gamelon type music to find ourselves guests of honour at an unknown dance feast. The next morning the three of us went back to find out it was the Month's Mind for a 95yo gentleman who died a month before and the community were celebrating. After photographs with the clan leader we were treated to lovely home grown and roasted coffee and very English cinnamon cake.
Communal kitchen

As everywhere a 3 stone fire



And even dogs get cold in the mountains

Enjoying a palm wine with France at the market

Terri being a peasant horsewoman
Note the bike rack
After dinner with Honorary British Consul (note OUR Queen)
And then it was back down the mountain by Anguna for our last night in Dili with Ray and Becky and after a lovely Korean meal back for "pudding" at the home of the Honorary British Consul.

We flew from Dili to Adelaide via Darwin where we spent a day driving to Litchfield National Park for Terri's first Australian experience.
Magnetic termite mound in Litchfield

Ants riding Terri's bike from Adelaide Airport to Kimberley's house
On arrival in Adelaide we reassembled Rowenna (Terri's Thorn bicycle) and Ants road her to Kimberley's house for Terr's first truly Australian breakfast.
Terri is now staying with us for a couple of months on Kangaroo Island before we head off to the Netherlands sailing. We have already done plenty of Dragon boat paddling, sea kayaking, bike riding, walking, wildlife spotting, firewood cutting, gardening, some bush camping and plenty of art for the two sisters. We will do at least one trip North to show Terri the outback and maybe even sit quietly for a day or so.

Comments

  1. Enjoyed reading about your latest adventures. Loved the "Old Man of the Funeral Ceremony".
    Ros. x

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  2. Thank you Jane & Ants for continuing to share your amazing travels & lives with us. We enjoy hearing of your journey (but are not even the tiniest bit jealous coz we are scaredy cats). Keep up the adventuring & the recording & we'll keep reading (from the fireside).
    Rosanne & Joe xx

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